Razdelnaya Peak + Khan Tengri

  • Price

    5300 usd

  • days

  • climbing type

    high-altitude, technical mountaineering

  • Meeting Point

    Osh, Kyrgyzstan

  • Dates

    14 July – 8 August 

Climb it!


    2 in 1 – always better offer! Vizit 2 regions and climb 2 peaks – Razdelnaya (part of Lenin Peak climb) in Pamir and Khan Tengri in Tiаn Shan!

    The ascent of Razdelnaya and Khan Tengri belong to the class of high-altitude mountaineering. Razdelnaya Peak is a part of a Lenin Peak climb. This peaks by classics route has no technical difficulties. But Khan Tengri is a severe test of both high-altitude and technical skills. The climber requires good physical fitness, endurance and determination, appropriate equipment and proper acclimatization. We invite you to join the group under the guidance of an experienced, certified UIA GM guide Grigory Kochetkov.

    Important! You need experience climbing to 5000 or more!

    Day by Day plan

    Attention! According to the weather conditions, depending on the training and physical condition of the participants the program can be changed !

    3 July Day 1. Arriving to Osh, accommodation at a local hotel.

    4 July Day 2. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Pamir” (3600 m). Accommodation in BC “Pamir”.

    5 July Day 3. Acclimatization climb to Petrovsky peak ridge.

    Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge you will see a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.

    6 July Day 4. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

    Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. Total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

    7 July Day 5. Acclimatization climb to 4700m.

    Acclimatization climb to viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

    8 July Day 6. Climbing the Yukhin peak 5100 m.

    Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any special equipment. Overnight in the set up camp on the top of Yukhin peak . Night in tents. Self cooking.

    9 July Day 7.Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

    Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self cooking.

    10 July. Day 8 Rest day.

    Rest day in Camp 1.Preparation for trekking to Camp 2.

    11 July. Day 9. Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m).

    From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part the route goes to ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to cross the plateau and get to 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.

    12 July. Day 10. Accent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

    We have some breakfast and start climbing in roped team with crampons on. Our goal is to reach the steep slopes of Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

    13 July Day 11. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).

    Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with crampons on and in roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch we go down to the Base camp and have our dinner at the base camp.

    14 -15 July Day 12-13. Rest Days. Prepare for the ascent.

    We have rest at the Base Camp.

    16 July Day 14. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

    You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

    17 July Day 15. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

    Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.

    18 July Day 16. Ascent toCamp 3 (6100 m).

    Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.

    19 July Day 17. Summit day. Climbing to Lenin Peak 7134 m. and descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).

    We have to leave Camp 3 before sunrise. We walk in roped team with crampons on. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep (45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it is easy to get lost in white out conditions. On the very top of the peak you will find a small Lenin sculpture.

    There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!

    Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self cooking.

    20July Day 18. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

    Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in roped team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).

    21 July Day 19. Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

    Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge). Сelebration in Base Camp.

    22-23 July Day 20-21. Reserve days.

    Reserve day in case of bad weather.

    July 24 Day 22. Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.

    After breakfast we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the hotel in Osh.

    July 25. Day 23. Departure to Bishkek

    Overnight at a hotel.

    July 26. Day 24. Transfer to Issyk-Kul

    Transfer to the Tamga village on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Overnight in a hotel on the shore of Lake Issyk-kul.

    July 27. Day 25. Transfer to Karkara

    Transfer to Karkara camp. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.

    July 28. Day 26. Flight to Base Camp

    Breakfast. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek Base Camp at an altitude of 4000 meters. Accommodation in tents. Supper.

    July 29. Day 27. Preparing for the climb

    Preparation and check of equipment, a walk on the glacier before the start of the ascent to Camp 1.

    July 30. Day 28. Ascent to Camp 1

    Breakfast, ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4500 meters. Setting up camp, dinner, overnight in tents.

    July 31, Day 29. Ascent to Camp 2

    Early ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The route follows a snowy ridge with sections of rocks, sometimes vertical. One of the most difficult days on the ascent.

    August 1. Day 30. Ascent Chapaeva Peak

    Ascent to the Chapaev Peak 6100 m. and descent to the Saddle to Camp 3. (5900 m.) Overnight in tents.

    August 2. Day 31. Day of ascent to Khan Tengri

    Summit day. Early start at 2-3 o’clock in the morning. 14.00- is a turning point – you must reach the summit or start your descend to get down before darkness.

    August 3. Day 32. Reserve day

    August 4. Day 33. Descent to the Base Camp

    August 5. Day 34. Helicopter flight

    Departure to Karkara Camp .

    August 6. Day 35 . Transfer to Bishkek

    Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Dinner at the restaurant.

    August 7. Day 36. Reserve day

    Reserve day.

    August 8. Day 37. Flight home.

    Transfer to the airport. Flight home.




    • Accommodation in Osh – 2 nights in local hotel with breakfast. Double room accommodation.
    • Accommodation in mountains. Single accommodation in Base Camp (in tents). Or you can choose shared room in a hut. In High Camps accommodation in double tents.
    • In Base Camp: Café – dining room, WC, storage, hot shower, electricity.
    • Meals – full board in mountains. Breakfast in hotel.
    • Cooking set (1 per tent). Gas for stoves.
    • Guide services 1 guide for 3 climbers.
    • First aid and medical consultation.


    • Kyrgyz visa.
    • Horses to Camp 1.
    • Porters to High Camps (personal gear transportation within Camp 1- Camp 2 -Camp 3 and back way).
    • Beverages and meals not included in main menu.
    • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.).
    • Single hotel accommodation
    • All changes of main itinerary and extra services.


    • Accommodation in Bishkek – 2 nights in a hotel with breakfast. Accommodation in a double room.
    • Accommodation in camps and in the mountains in double tents.
    • Meals-full board in the mountains. Breakfast at the hotel.
    • Cooking kit (1 per tent). Gas for the stove.
    • Guides (1 guide for 3 participants).
    • First aid and medical advice.


    • Overweight with a helicopter (more than 30 kg)
    • Porters
    • Drinks and dishes not included in the main menu.
    • All personal expenses (payment for additional baggage, excursions).
    • Medical and transport insurance.
    • Single accommodation in a hotel.
    • All changes to the main route and additional services.

    inportant information and gear

    Personal gear:

    • Down jacket with a hood, large enough to put on over a fleece jacket
    • Warm fleece / Softshell
    • Long sleeve warm thermal underwear shirt
    • Long sleeve underwear shirt (Light/medium)
    • Water proof and breathable jacket with hood (Gore Tex is strongly recommended)
    • T-shirts
    • Fleece or Softshell pants (with full side zips to allow ventilation)
    • Two pairs of long underwear pants (one light and one medium-warm)
    • Waterproof and breathable pants (or bib pants) with full side zips for easy putting on and taking off
    • Trekking pants
    • Shorts
    • Socks2-3 pairs
    • 3 pairs of thermal socks (medium-heavy thickness)
    • Hat with brim (best option) or bandana or cap
    • Climbing (double or triple) high-altitude expedition boots
    • Light weight trekking boots
    • Sandals for Osh and Base camp
    • 2 pairs Softshell gloves
    • high-altitude warm mittens
    • Thick hat (Softshell or fleece)
    • Warm Balaclava or Buff (face protection)
    • Glacier glasses
    • Ski mask (4+ level)
    • Extra pair of your ordinary glasses (if you wear them)
    • Down or hollow fiber filled sleeping bag good for -15-20 degrees Celsius
    • Sleeping pad, either a Therm-a-Rest, or a closed-cell foam pad
    • Head lamp with extra 2 sets of batteries
    • Water bottle 1 liter (with insulators)
    • Thermos 1 liter
    • Backpack 60-80 liters
    • Additional: one day pack 40-50 liters (should be big enough to hold two liters’ thermos, a snack, extra clothing, and a camera for the summit day) – or you can use big one.
    • Ice axe 60-70 cm
    • Telescopic ski poles
    • Crampons (well fitting, preferably “step-in”)
    • Gaiters
    • Harness
    • Leash with 2 rope ends (Y-form)
    • 5 Locking binners
    • Belay (rappel) device
    • Fixed rope ascender (joumar)
    • Helmet (Attention! During transporting in luggage helmet may be damaged, we recommend you to carry it in hand baggage)
    • Sun screen cream (spf 50+)
    • Your specific first aid kit
    • Lip balm (spf 25+)
    • Favorite lightweight snacks, vitamins, isotonic
    • Personal mug, spoon, plate.

    Additional: personal jet-boil or stove and pot (if you prefer to have your own)

    there are no rental stores in mountains!

    If you need something to rent, please send a gear list to manager =)

    Grigory Kochetkov © 2021