3-25 July 2021
Lenin Peak – Try The Altitude!
Climbing Lenin Peak belongs to high-altitude mountaineering, but the classic route has no technical difficulties. The climber must have good physical fitness, endurance and determination, proper equipment and acclimatization. For success climbing the leader of a group variety of mountain experience, tactical skills, the ability to predict weather conditions and deep knowledge of the local terrain.
If you want to try yourself at Lenin Peak – we invite you to join the group under the guidance of an experienced, certified UIAGM guide Grigory Kochetkov. Be safe and reach The Goal !
Important! Experience of climbing more than 5000 m is required!
Warning! The guide can change program according to the weather conditions and participants’ health status.
3 July Day 1. Arriving to Osh, accommodation at a local hotel.
4 July Day 2. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Pamir” (3600 m). Accommodation in BC “Pamir”.
5 July Day 3. Acclimatization climb to Petrovsky peak ridge.
Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge you will see a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.
6 July Day 4. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. Total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
7 July Day 5. Acclimatization climb to 4700m.
Acclimatization climb to viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
8 July Day 6. Climbing the Yukhin peak 5100 m.
Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any special equipment. Overnight in the set up camp on the top of Yukhin peak . Night in tents. Self cooking.
9 July Day 7.Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self cooking.
10 July. Day 8 Rest day.
Rest day in Camp 1.Preparation for trekking to Camp 2.
11 July. Day 9. Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m).
From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part the route goes to ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to cross the plateau and get to 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
12 July. Day 10. Accent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
We have some breakfast and start climbing in roped team with crampons on. Our goal is to reach the steep slopes of Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.
13 July Day 11. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).
Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with crampons on and in roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch we go down to the Base camp and have our dinner at the base camp.
14 -15 July Day 12-13. Rest Days. Prepare for the ascent.
We have rest at the Base Camp.
16 July Day 14. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
17 July Day 15. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
18 July Day 16. Ascent toCamp 3 (6100 m).
Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.
19 July Day 17. Summit day. Climbing to Lenin Peak 7134 m. and descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).
We have to leave Camp 3 before sunrise. We walk in roped team with crampons on. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep (45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it is easy to get lost in white out conditions. On the very top of the peak you will find a small Lenin sculpture.
There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!
Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self cooking.
20July Day 18. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in roped team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).
21 July Day 19. Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).
Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge). Сelebration in Base Camp.
22-23 July Day 20-21. Reserve days.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
July 24 Day 22. Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.
After breakfast we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the hotel in Osh.
July 25 Day 23. Transfer to the airport. Departure.
Grigory Kochetkov © 2021