high-altitude, technical mountaineering
3 July – 8 August
2 in 1 – always better offer! Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri are the pearls of Pamir and Tiаn Shan!
The ascent of Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri belong to the class of high-altitude mountaineering. Lenin Peak by classics route has no technical difficulties. But Khan Tengri is a severe test of both high-altitude and technical skills. The climber requires good physical fitness, endurance and determination, appropriate equipment and proper acclimatization. We invite you to join the group under the guidance of an experienced, certified UIA GM guide Grigory Kochetkov.
Important! You need experience climbing to 5000 or more!
Attention! According to the weather conditions, depending on the training and physical condition of the participants the program can be changed !
Day 1. Arriving to Osh, accommodation at a local hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Pamir” (3600 m). Accommodation in BC “Pamir”.
Day 3. Acclimatization climb to Petrovsky peak ridge.
Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge you will see a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.
Day 4. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. Total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
Day 5. Acclimatization climb to 4700m.
Acclimatization climb to viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
Day 6. Climbing the Yukhin peak 5100 m.
Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any special equipment. Overnight in the set up camp on the top of Yukhin peak . Night in tents. Self cooking.
Day 7.Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self cooking.
Day 8 Rest day.
Rest day in Camp 1.Preparation for trekking to Camp 2.
Day 9. Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m).
From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part the route goes to ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to cross the plateau and get to 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
Day 10. Accent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
We have some breakfast and start climbing in roped team with crampons on. Our goal is to reach the steep slopes of Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.
Day 11. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).
Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with crampons on and in roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch we go down to the Base camp and have our dinner at the base camp.
Day 12-13. Rest Days. Prepare for the ascent.
We have rest at the Base Camp.
Day 14. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).
Day 15. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
Day 16. Ascent toCamp 3 (6100 m).
Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.
Day 17. Summit day. Climbing to Lenin Peak 7134 m. and descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).
We have to leave Camp 3 before sunrise. We walk in roped team with crampons on. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep (45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it is easy to get lost in white out conditions. On the very top of the peak you will find a small Lenin sculpture.
There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!
Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self cooking.
Day 18. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in roped team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).
Day 19. Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).
Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge). Сelebration in Base Camp.
Day 20-21. Reserve days.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 22. Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.
After breakfast we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the hotel in Osh.
Day 23. Departure to Bishkek
Overnight at a hotel.
Day 24. Transfer to Issyk-Kul
Transfer to the Tamga village on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Overnight in a hotel on the shore of Lake Issyk-kul.
Day 25. Transfer to Karkara
Transfer to Karkara camp. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.
Day 26. Flight to Base Camp
Breakfast. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek Base Camp at an altitude of 4000 meters. Accommodation in tents. Supper.
Day 27. Preparing for the climb
Preparation and check of equipment, a walk on the glacier before the start of the ascent to Camp 1.
Day 28. Ascent to Camp 1
Breakfast, ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4500 meters. Setting up camp, dinner, overnight in tents.
Day 29. Ascent to Camp 2
Early ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The route follows a snowy ridge with sections of rocks, sometimes vertical. One of the most difficult days on the ascent.
Day 30. Ascent Chapaeva Peak
Ascent to the Chapaev Peak 6100 m. and descent to the Saddle to Camp 3. (5900 m.) Overnight in tents.
Day 31. Day of ascent to Khan Tengri
Summit day. Early start at 2-3 o’clock in the morning. 14.00- is a turning point – you must reach the summit or start your descend to get down before darkness.
Day 32. Reserve day
Day 33. Descent to the Base Camp
Day 34. Helicopter flight
Departure to Karkara Camp .
Day 35 . Transfer to Bishkek
Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Dinner at the restaurant.
Day 36. Reserve day
Day 37. Flight home.
Transfer to the airport. Flight home.
Additional: personal jet-boil or stove and pot (if you prefer to have your own)
If you need something to rent, please send a gear list to manager =)
Grigory Kochetkov © 2021