high-altitude, technical mountaineering
Mineralnye Vody (MVR airport)
on request, season: June – September
Mount Dykh-Tau (5205 m) is the second highest peak in Europe. It is a bright star of the Caucasus highest peaks. This is a real challenge! Thousands of people climb Elbrus every year, and only a few go to Dykh – Tau. Climbing requires experience, endurance, right tactics and good acclimatization. With our professional, UIA GM certified guides everything is possible! What are you waiting for?
Welcome to Bezengi Valley which is called “Russian Himalayas”.
Climbing Dykh-Tau is a great way to discover the authentic part of Caucasus mountains, make an exceptionally beautiful journey to the land of the highest mountains in Europe!
This program includes technical training, acclimatization, training climb to the summit above 4000 m and climbing Dykh-Tau (5205 m) via classical route across ice and rock.
Attention! According to the weather conditions, depending on the training and physical condition of the participants the program can be changed !
Day 1. Arriving to Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV).
We will meet you at the exit of arrival zone. Transfer to Bezengi Base Camp (2200 m., 5-6 hours) where you will have dinner and spend a night in Base Camp. You can choose basic accommodation or authentic Balkar tower or you can spend time in oriental saklya mini-hotel.
Day 2: Acclimatization and Ice training (3200m.)
Acclimatization day. We go trekking to “Popovskie Nochevki” camp (2800 m, 3-4 hours). Here we will refresh our skills of glacier walking with ice axe and crampons, ice climbing, belaying and rappelling. Dinner. Self-cooking. Overnight at Camp “Popvskie Nochevki”
Day 3: Ascent to Camp “Teply Ygol”(3400m).
Ascent to Camp “Teply Ygol” (3400m, 3-4 hours). !). “Teply Ygol” is translated as a “Warm Corner”. although it is not as warm as you would prefer it to be, it is surrounded with mountains and beautiful landscapes. There you will meet the mountain goats (like bighorns) that live here. They are not afraid of people and can come very close to the Camp (they are completely not dangerous for humans!). Night in tents. Self-cooking.
Day 4: Dumala saddle climb and overnight(4000m.)
Ascent to the saddle between Ural Peak and Dumala Peak (4000m,5-6 hours). This is remote and picturesque place for tents. Fantastic landscapes, especially in the evening while you will enjoy your meal. Overnight in tents. Self cooking.
Day 5: Dumala climb (4682m)
Acclimatization and training climb to Dumala peak (4682 m., 6-8 hours). Dumala is an interesting and challenging climb. For many climbers this ascent is the ultimate goal of the journey, but for us it is just the beginning! Descent to Camp “Teply Ygol” (3400m). Overnight in tents. Self cooking.
Day 6: Descent to Bezengi Base Camp (2200m.)
Descent to Bezengi Base Camp (2200 m). Rest, prepare for Dykh-Tau climbing. Dinner.
Day 7: Rest day.
Day 8: Trekking to Camp 1 (3500m)
Trekking to Camp1 “Russkie Nochevki (3500 m., 4-5 hours). Today we will go to the main Bezengi Gorge towards the Bezengi Wall. You will see a flat open glacier the biggest in Caucasis, and a wall of giant mountains (more than 5000m!). Dinner. Self-cooking.
Day 9: Ascent to Camp 2 (4650 m.)
Climbing snow/ice slope to small saddle and next to the North Ridge to Camp-2 “VCSPS” (4650 m). Dinner. Self-cooking. Night in a tent under the dome of stars.
Day 10: Summit Day(5204 m).
Summit Day to Dykh-Tau (5204 m). Long and technical climbing (4+). Climbing will take 6-8 hours. In case of successful ascent you will stay at the highest point of the entire Bezengi Area and second in whole Europe. This is the best viewpoint with 360 panorama of giant peaks, called the Russian Himalayas.
There is a crowd of people both on Elbrus and on Everest in climbing season. But highly likely we’ll be alone on the top of Dykh-Tau. In this context Dykh –Tau can be compared with K2 climb. Descent to the Camp 2 or saddle (4650 m,4 hours more). Dinner. Self-cooking.
Day 11: Descent to Base Camp(2200m.)
Trekking to Bezengi Base Camp (2200 m). Celebration dinner with oriental cuisine, summit certificates award and traditional sauna.
Day 12: Extra day
Extra day in case of bad weather.
Day 13: Departure
Transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV) (5-6 hours) and departure.
Attention! Border zone permit needed!
When you confirm the tour, our manager will send you a list of documents for border zone permit.
Attention! You must confirm the tour and send all documents required at least 2.5 months before your arrival in Russia
Grigory Kochetkov © 2021