Dykh-Tau, Caucasus, 5205m

  • Price

    3800 usd

  • days

    13
  • climbing type

    high-altitude, technical mountaineering

  • Meeting Point

    Mineralnye Vody (MVR airport)

  • Dates

    on request, season: June - September

description

Mount Dykh-Tau (5205 m) is the second highest peak in Europe. It is a bright star of the Caucasus highest peaks. This is a real challenge! Thousands of people climb Elbrus every year, and only a few go to Dykh - Tau. Climbing requires experience, endurance, right tactics and good acclimatization. With our professional, UIA GM certified guides everything is possible! What are you waiting for?

Welcome to Bezengi Valley which is called “Russian Himalayas”.

Climbing Dykh-Tau is a great way to discover the authentic part of Caucasus mountains, make an exceptionally beautiful journey to the land of the highest mountains in Europe!

This program includes technical training, acclimatization, training climb to the summit above 4000 m and climbing Dykh-Tau (5205 m) via classical route across ice and rock.


Day by Day plan

Attention! According to the weather conditions, depending on the training and physical condition of the participants the program can be changed !

Day 1. Arriving to Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV).

We will meet you at the exit of arrival zone. Transfer to Bezengi Base Camp (2200 m., 5-6 hours) where you will have dinner and spend a night in Base Camp. You can choose basic accommodation or authentic Balkar tower or you can spend time in oriental saklya mini-hotel.

Day 2: Acclimatization and Ice training (3200m.)

Acclimatization day. We go trekking to “Popovskie Nochevki” camp (2800 m, 3-4 hours). Here we will refresh our skills of glacier walking with ice axe and crampons, ice climbing, belaying and rappelling. Dinner. Self-cooking. Overnight at Camp “Popvskie Nochevki”

Day 3: Ascent to Camp “Teply Ygol”(3400m).

Ascent to Camp “Teply Ygol” (3400m, 3-4 hours). !). “Teply Ygol” is translated as a “Warm Corner”. although it is not as warm as you would prefer it to be, it is surrounded with mountains and beautiful landscapes. There you will meet the mountain goats (like bighorns) that live here. They are not afraid of people and can come very close to the Camp (they are completely not dangerous for humans!). Night in tents. Self-cooking.

 

Day 4: Dumala saddle climb and overnight(4000m.)

Ascent to the saddle between Ural Peak and Dumala Peak (4000m,5-6 hours). This is remote and picturesque place for tents. Fantastic landscapes, especially in the evening while you will enjoy your meal. Overnight in tents. Self cooking.

Day 5: Dumala climb (4682m)

Acclimatization and training climb to Dumala peak (4682 m., 6-8 hours). Dumala is an interesting and challenging climb. For many climbers this ascent is the ultimate goal of the journey, but for us it is just the beginning! Descent to Camp “Teply Ygol” (3400m). Overnight in tents. Self cooking.

Day 6: Descent to Bezengi Base Camp (2200m.)

Descent to Bezengi Base Camp (2200 m). Rest, prepare for Dykh-Tau climbing. Dinner.

Day 7: Rest day.

Day 8: Trekking to Camp 1 (3500m)

Trekking to Camp1 “Russkie Nochevki (3500 m., 4-5 hours). Today we will go to the main Bezengi Gorge towards the Bezengi Wall. You will see a flat open glacier the biggest in Caucasis, and a wall of giant mountains (more than 5000m!). Dinner. Self-cooking.

Day 9: Ascent to Camp 2 (4650 m.)

Climbing snow/ice slope to small saddle and next to the North Ridge to Camp-2 “VCSPS” (4650 m). Dinner. Self-cooking. Night in a tent under the dome of stars.

Day 10: Summit Day(5204 m).

Summit Day to Dykh-Tau (5204 m). Long and technical climbing (4+). Climbing will take 6-8 hours. In case of successful ascent you will stay at the highest point of the entire Bezengi Area and second in whole Europe. This is the best viewpoint with 360 panorama of giant peaks, called the Russian Himalayas.
There is a crowd of people both on Elbrus and on Everest in climbing season. But highly likely we'll be alone on the top of Dykh-Tau. In this context Dykh –Tau can be compared with K2 climb. Descent to the Camp 2 or saddle (4650 m,4 hours more). Dinner. Self-cooking.

Day 11: Descent to Base Camp(2200m.)

Trekking to Bezengi Base Camp (2200 m). Celebration dinner with oriental cuisine, summit certificates award and traditional sauna.

Day 12: Extra day

Extra day in case of bad weather.

Day 13: Departure

Transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV) (5-6 hours) and departure.

price

3800 USD

PRICE INCLUDED:

  • Guide services 1 guide for 1 climber!
  • Transfer Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV). – Bezengi - Mineralnye Vody(MRV)
  • Mountain accommodation (in tents)
  • All group equipment (ropes, tents, ice screw
  • Meals – full board in mountains
  • Cooking set (1 per tent). Gas for stoves
  • First aid and medical consultation
  • Border zone permit (Bezengi valley is close to the federal boarder and climbers require permit to go there)

PRICE NOT INCLUDED

  • Russian visa.
  • Flight tickets.
  • Accommodation in Bezengi camp. You can choose basic accommodation or authentic Balkar tower or spend time in oriental saklya mini-hotel. More detailed information about price and availability of all types of rooms will be provided by our manager.
  • Meals in Bezengi camp: you can choose local Caucasian or Russian \ European cuisine.
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu.

inportant information and gear

Personal gear:

  • Warm fleece / pile jacket
  • Long sleeve warm thermal underwear shirt
  • Long sleeve underwear shirt (Light/medium)
  • Water proof and breathable jacket with hood (Gore Tex is strongly recommended)
  • Down jacket with a hood, large enough to put on over a fleece jacket
  • T-shirts
  • Fleece or Softshell pants (with full side zips to allow ventilation)
  • Two pairs of long underwear pants (one light and one medium-warm)
  • Waterproof and breathable pants (or bib pants) with full side zips for easy putting on and taking off
  • Trekking pants
  • Shorts
  • Socks2-3 pairs
  • 3 pairs of thermal socks (medium-heavy thickness)
  • Hat with brim (best option) or bandana or cap
  • Climbing warm technical boots
  • Light weight trekking boots
  • Sandals Base camp
  • 2 pairs Softshell gloves
  • High-altitude warm mittens
  • Thick hat (Softshell or fleece)
  • Warm Balaclava or Buff (face protection)
  • Glacier glasses
  • Ski mask (4+ level)
  • Extra pair of your ordinary glasses (if you wear them)
  • Down or hollow fiber filled sleeping bag good for -15-20 degrees Celsius
  • Sleeping pad, either a Therm-a-Rest, or a closed-cell foam pad
  • Head lamp with extra 2 sets of batteries
  • Water bottle 1 liter (with insulators)
  • Thermos 1 liter
  • Backpack 60-80 liters
  • Additional: one day pack 40-50 (should be big enough to hold two liters’ thermos, a snack, extra clothing, and a camera for the summit day) – or you can use big one.
  • Ice axe 60-70 cm
  • Technical ice tool
  • Telescopic ski poles
  • Crampons (well fitting, preferably “step-in”)
  • Gaiters
  • Harness
  • Leash with 2 rope ends (Y-form)
  • 5 Locking Binners
  • Belay (rappel) device
  • Helmet (Attention! During transporting in luggage helmet may be damaged, we recommend you to carry it in hand baggage)
  • 2 handled acsendets
  • Additional (recommended!): kneepads (knee protection)
  • Sun screen cream (spf 50+)
  • Your specific first aid kit
  • Lip balm (spf 25+)
  • Favorite lightweight snacks, vitamins, isotonic
  • Personal cup, spoon, plate.

Attention! Border zone permit needed! 

When you confirm the tour, our manager will send you a list of documents for border zone permit.

Attention! You must confirm the tour and send all documents required at least 2.5 months before your arrival in Russia

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